Lucas Ossendrijver's first offering for Theory, which has long specialized in wear-to-work tailoring, will arrive in stores this September.
back in 2018, after 14 years at the French label, where he invented its menswear codes more or less from scratch and was at least partly responsible for ushering in the high-fashion sneaker trend that still dominates today, but lately he’s been busy behind the scenes. Last July, Theory announced it had hired Ossendrijver to design capsule collections.
“I’ve always liked Theory as a brand and what it stands for,” Ossendrijver told me from an August vacation in Bali. “There’s something very pragmatic about it, and that I felt kind of close to as a design philosophy. Also, because Theory is a big company, the decisions you make have an impact. We work a lot with sustainable fabrics—recycled wools, recycled nylons—and the impact is real.
Ossendrijver keeps a large archive of clothes and, to this day, he’s very hands-on. “I like to be able to get into clothes and to use them as material,” he said. Instead of drawing, he’ll make collages and try things on the mannequin or a model, and after that comes the fun part: “then I start playing around and twisting.” Paging through these images, which were photographed by David Sims, he happily talked details.
By his last show for Lanvin for fall 2018, Ossendrijver was already questioning the usefulness of the show system and designer-priced clothes. “In fashion I thinkis a strange word nowadays,” he said at the time. “It doesn’t mean anything anymore. We have to elevate how we make clothes and discover how by changing that you can change fashion.” Installed at Theory, he’s on his way.
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