From Clarendon County, South Carolina, to the Southside of Chicago, Howard Conyers, Ph.D, proves that cooking over fire is a roadmap to the past.
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I barbecued my first hog when I was 11 years old. We’d cook them nice and slow—12 to 15 hours each—and use literally every part of the animal. It was always one of the biggest things that brought my family together. But being a Black farmer in America, like my father was, comes with many injustices and little economic viability. In the 1970s and ’80s, Black farmers were constantly denied loans. They made less than their white counterparts on the same commodities: tobacco, cotton, hogs.
I’ve visited all the Black-owned whole-hog barbecue restaurants left in the U.S. There are less than a dozen. I’m recording the pitmasters’ oral histories and noting the linkages. For example, I already knew from the archives that enslaved Africans were cooking for wealthy planters in long open trenches at political rallies back in the Virginia colony before the United States was even a country.
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