Popular with Greek holidaymakers, the great-value Epirus region has reasonably priced tavernas and snowy slopes until late March
Greece was experiencing the warmest winter on record when I arrived in the Epirus region, straddled between north-west Greece and southern Albania, in late February. As I hiked part of the 32km perimeter of Aoos River Lake in the Pindus mountains, behind my guide Giorgos, from Epirus Adventures, it was so hot I stripped to my T-shirt beneath skies as blue as stonewashed denim.
Normally they’d still be hibernating in late February, but, as I drove back towards my hotel that evening, I glimpsed one lumbering through the forest. The size of a Shetland pony, it looked deceptively cuddly with its fluffy Paddington Bear ears and stiff ruff of cinnamon-coloured fur., a boutique hotel named for one of the region’s best-known families. It is in Metsovo, a northern town around an hour and a half from Albania and the epicentre of Greece’s nomadic Vlach population.
While enjoying my first breakfast at Katogi Averoff – sheep’s yoghurt as thick as clotted cream drizzled with resin-yellow local honey and dotted with walnuts – I read about Georgios Averoff, who was one of the economic exiles.
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