Marks & Spencer’s archive is a window on 20th-century Britain

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Marks & Spencer’s archive is a window on 20th-century Britain
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  • 📰 TheEconomist
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Pants, socks and social history

in 1994, most clues to its identity had gone. A few facts remained. It was clear that the man had been tall ; that he was well-dressed ; and that whatever had led to him bobbing in the North Sea had not been nice . But knowing more—and dating his death—would be hard. Except for one thing: his underwear. For in his pants was a small, white label. It stated that they were medium, that they were 100% cotton and, best of all, that they were made by “St Michael”. Suddenly there was hope.

Long before women were liberated by burning their bras, they were liberated by being able to pop them in the twin tub and let them drip dry. To step into the archives at Leeds is an odd experience. At first sight, it feels like any other archive. But open its boxes and another world appears. In one box is a beautiful 1940s pink silken bra, the cups puffed up with tissue paper as if by a ghostly bosom. On a nearby rail hang dressing gowns: one post-war and woolly, one diaphanous, one of a paisley-ish pattern a 1950s father might have worn. Each is almost unbearably evocative of its era. Proust might have had his madeleines.

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