I Drank the Portland-Made Cotton Candy Hard Seltzer so You Don’t Have To

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I Drank the Portland-Made Cotton Candy Hard Seltzer so You Don’t Have To
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Upper Left’s cotton candy hard seltzer is proof we've hit Peak Hard Seltzer (Via eaterpdx)

in high-end restaurants and glass bottles from every corner of the world in specialty store aisles. For many connoisseurs, mineral water is the next level, after using a flavored seltzer as your entry point. In Punch, beverage writer Jordan Michelmanthat the seltzer renaissance in 2019 was simply a stepping stone on the path to a rediscovery and reimagining of mineral water.

But there’s a possibility that Upper Left’s choice to go with saccharine flavors was a deliberate rejection of the pretense surrounding how we eat and drink, because in a world where everything feels terrifying and scary, people seem to be seeking comfort.

Upper Left Seltzer Co. is unabashed in its acknowledgement of the seltzers’ hyper-artificial flavors; in fact, it’s part of the schtick. “When we first started conceptualizing a new craft seltzer brand, we knew we wanted to create something that of course, tasted incredible, but also evoked a feeling of nostalgia and fun. There are tons of fruit and herbaceous flavored seltzers on the market, so went with something completely different,” Milne says in a press release.

It’s not that an artificial or sugary flavor is inherently bad, in a hard seltzer or in any other beverage. It’s that a hard seltzer, at its core, needs to be able to cover up the flavor of whatever unnamed, unclassifiable alcohol gives it that 5 percent ABV. The Key lime pie offers a balance of different flavors that successfully distract from the mystery spirit behind the curtain.

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