Some of the world's best restaurants have had to make a quick pivot to weather the coronavirus.
Michaela Kelly, left, a staffer from Alinea restaurant, checks carryout orders with a customer in Chicago, Saturday, June 20, 2020. Due to the coronavirus, Alinea shifted to carryout on March 17. Since then, it has served 82,000 meals, said Nick Kokonas, the restaurant's co-owner. Kokonas said carryout was so successful that Alinea hired all its employees back by the end of April at 80% of their former pay and benefits.
Crenn is in good company. Chefs at many of the world’s best restaurants are making quick pivots to weather the coronavirus. Some say carryout has been so popular that they’ll continue when dining rooms reopen. Others stayed closed but made meals for their furloughed staff. Some three-star restaurants, like The French Laundry in Yountville, California, and Restaurant Gordon Ramsey in London, have temporarily closed, saying that was the best way to protect guests and staff. Others aren’t offering carryout but are still cooking. Eleven Madison Park in New York is making 3,000 meals per day for frontline workers.
Toshi Szpyra, a behavioral analyst in Chicago, was looking forward to celebrating her wedding anniversary at Alinea earlier this month. Instead, she and her husband ordered a six-course spring tasting menu. Each dish came prepared with instructions for how to reheat and plate the meal, she said. The highlight? Scallops with ham and peas on fennel with a white wine vermouth cream sauce.
“It serves a higher purpose right now. Fine dining is not what we need. Connecting over nature and food in a beautiful setting and providing a genuine experience — that’s what we need,” she said.
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