OPINION: In this country, even when restricted by laws governing what we could and couldn’t wear, we found ways to express ourselves — and to resist oppression — through how we clothed and carried ourselves.
true and fantastic Black beauty — and starving for lunch. Minutes after leaving the museum, I was standing in line at Super Duper Burgers. Ahead of me were three Black women, spread across both line lanes as they talked.
The works in this show are about more than cool clothes: They make you want to know more about the people in them. In a Nadine Ijewere photo, the crisply detailed, laughing smile of a beautiful young woman with a short Afro floats above the blurred passionfruit clouds of her ballgown.
While much of the work was produced for fashion editorials and published in magazines, the exhibition dissolves the line between pictures meant to engage a consumer in a designer’s products and photography that moves the mind and soul. The credit for this belongs to Sargent, 33, who like the photographers he chose to showcase, is invested in the humanity and specificity of Black representation.
Tyler Mitchell’s quote, “To convey Black beauty is an act of justice,” may well be the guiding principle of the entire show. In 2018, Mitchell became the first Black photographer to shoot Vogue’s cover since the magazine was founded in 1892. He was just 23 when he shot the two September 2018 cover photos of Beyoncé for Vogue. Mitchell, who told Sargent, “Fashion was always something distant to me,” cut his teeth photographing friends and family at his family’s home in Atlanta.
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