Claudia Roden’s monumental cookbook is a vivid, encyclopedic account of both Jewish food and Jewish life
In 1981, at the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery, an annual gathering of some of the finest minds in the food world, the cookbook writer Claudia Roden, already famous for her authoritative first book,Because the Jewish God has a sense of humor, Roden shortly afterward embarked on a new project about, yes, Jewish food. took 16 years to finish, plenty of time to consider the Jewish food question.
This lack of consensus is a very big problem for someone who is trying to write the definitive book on Jewish food. Instead of trying to be completist or hand down definitive judgments, Roden decided — and this is the reason this book is wonderful — to put all these recipes back in the context in which they were first eaten by Jews. Food becomes a means of time travel. Even if there were no recipes at all, the descriptions of the Jewish communities of the past and what they ate would make the book worth reading.
In 1951, when she was 15, Roden left Egypt to go to boarding school in Paris, and then, three years later, to London to study painting at Central Saint Martins. In the fall of 1956, in the wake of the Suez Crisis and the failed invasion of Egypt by Israel, Britain, and France, the Egyptian president Gamal Adbel Nasser expelled all foreigners and Jews, some with as little as 24 hours’ notice.
Roden’s quest for more recipes eventually took her to the British Museum in search of Arab cookbooks. The only ones she could find were from the Middle Ages. She also found a Ph.D. dissertation about a 13th-century cooking manual from what is now Lebanon. It explored not just how to prepare food but also what the food said about the society: which class of people was eating these dishes and which class of people was preparing them and the trade routes that made foreign ingredients available.
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