The American ingredient Dorie Greenspan brought to Paris for 13 years.
, and, just once, a frozen Butterball turkey. When Greenspan and husband, Michael, began living in Paris for parts of the year, around that same time, she quickly discovered she could only go so long without baking a cheesecake. She then began hauling 10 pounds of the stuff at a time, keeping four pounds to bake with and dispersing the rest among friends who asked for it.
Greenspan’s lifelong love of cream cheese began like that of many Americans: as part of the Sunday morning breakfast ritual. Each week, her family would gather around the dining room table of their Brooklyn, New York home and load up bagels with schmear and assorted cured fish while they traded sections of“When I started learning to bake, I learned how to make
, which is based on a cream cheese dough,” she explains. “So cream cheese has always been my friend in the kitchen. The surprise was seeing that the French wanted it.”estimates that the average French person eats 57 pounds of cheese per year—from fresh to spreadable; hard and blue alike; made from cow’s, goat’s or sheep’s milk; eaten alone, on bread or with dried fruit after a meal.
“There are French desserts made with cheese, too” Greenspan remarks, referring to the burnished, modestly flat Alsatian-style confection made with fromage blanc and Tourteau Fromagé. It’s a spongy, not-too-sweet yellow goat cheese cake that gets its dry and crumbly texture, plus its charcoal-black crust, from baking at a very high temperature. “But rich, creamy, New York-style cheesecake is uniquely American.
Back then, the closest French proxies to American cream cheese were the higher-moisture, cow's milk–based
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