Looking back on the day I visited the famed British-born cook at her rustic home Quinta Diana in central Mexico.
She got in her truck and started driving. Little by little, she traversed the country on her own, defying norms about foreigners — and foreign women — traveling to non-touristy destinations in a country with weak standards of rule-of-law and ongoing violence between criminal cartels and the armed forces.
But she’d wave her hand at all that, approving of no such title other than simply “cook.” Not even chef, she’d say. Open a restaurant? Ridiculous.The author was notorious for bad-mouthing, in public, any chef of Mexican food north of the border who’d claim to be “authentic” in the context of U.S. restaurants. The commercialization, or let’s say the Frida Kahlo-izing of Mexican food made her furious.
In “Nothing Fancy,” which premieres virtually Friday, the queen of Mexican regional cooking confronts mortality and the director of her documentary. Kennedy also loved to dine out, and be seen. Consequently, chefs in Mexico City were terrified of Kennedy’s assessment if she ever stopped in. So when the cook walked into the seafood restaurant Contramar, and loved it, chef Gabriela Cámara recalled a sense of relief. They became friends over a kinship. Cámara said she grew up practicing what Kennedy preached: composting and collecting rainwater with her parents in Tepoztlán.
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