Why China's spiciest cuisine is especially hot right now

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Why China's spiciest cuisine is especially hot right now
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The Chinese province of Sichuan is famous for its spicy cuisine. One trio of experts set out to provide its

Courtesy of Richard Hartung for Ruyi Gastronomy

"It's celebrated because it's very diverse, with everything from cheap street eats to very elevated banquet cooking," said Fuchsia Dunlop, acclaimed author of food books that include "Land of Plenty," "Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China," and her latest "The Food of Sichuan.

Nicknamed the "soul of Sichuan cuisine," the salty bean paste called doubanjiang is traditionally made by fermenting it, sometimes for years, in earthenware pots."There has never been a comprehensive look at Sichuan cuisine from a local, national or international level," Yang said.

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