Betsey Johnson reflects on her favorite fashion show of all time and how she brought it to life.
Collage by Ashley Peña
Betsey Johnson opened her sprawling spring 1994 show with her signature cartwheels, kicks, and splits—all while wearing a skirt made out of hair extensions. A group of models sat behind her on a set built to resemble a beauty parlor, complete with shimmery pink curtains and retro dryers. They then paraded onstage, wearing little slip dresses, garter belts, granny-square crochet vests, and fruit-printed dresses with bright bras peeking out—and even brighter corsets layered on top of them.
By the 1970s, Johnson designed for the popular label Alley Cat, which was beloved for its quirky prints, bold colors, and affordable prices. Johnson started her own fashion line eight years later—and in the 1990s, she really started etching out the style which people know and love her for today. “For the ’90s, my fashion show days were just about not going by any of the rules, showing the clothes the way I wanted to, with the best models I’ve ever worked with,” she says.
Ève Salvail, who often walked for Jean Paul Gaultier and made a buzz cut revealing a large tattoo on her head her signature, was just one of the girls who partied on that spring 1994 runway. In addition to dancing, shimmying, and strutting down the catwalk, the models took Polaroid pictures of the audience, then tossed them back into the crowd. “To me, what always made the clothes work and the shows work is that I picked the right models who knew what my shows were about,” Johnson says.
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