a little joy for your afternoon ✨
These hair shows continue to celebrate the endless potential of black hair in the most unconventional, spellbinding ways, and often incorporate staged and technical dance routines that add an additional layer to the drama, serving opulence by way of exaggeration to the showgoers., aka “Hump the Grinder,” both as a way to give black hairstylists a forum to showcase their creations and as one of Humphries’s “‘gimmick parties’ to keep things interesting in the clubs.
“The Detroit Hair Wars shows were pure camp,” says pop culture scholar and retired cosmetologist Clitha Mason. “Not only did the shows possess the queer sensibility that is a camp essential, they were subversive in ways that critiqued the opulence portrayed by the wealthy white population through hyperbolic renditions of opulent lifestyles. Inspired by club-kid style, black stylists and models donned outlandish costumes, performed skits, and danced as part of troupes and ensembles.
“The fantasy shows started in the mid-1950s, and the purpose was really to take the limits off the stylist’s creativity,” says James Bronner, VP of trade-show operations. “Fantasy was not limited by social norms or practical applications of style. The limit was taken off of your creativity to really allow the artists to be uninhibited in their expression. They’re only limited by two things: their own imaginations and the craftsmanship of their hands to bring that imagination into manifestation.
While there are examples in black culture that align with the theme as it resonates with queer communities, a lot of black camp expression is rooted in self-presentation and preservation. So to understand how black culture fits into conversations around camp, there needs to be a reexamination of the term that isn’t as heavily reliant on Sontag’s essay.
Artifice and glamour are two camp attributes that black people use to resist a variety of things, such as discrimination, to disallow the mainstream to define us. Camp has existed throughout black culture and black fashion design, but often the art is solely analyzed through the lens of blackness, and alienates intersectional, or even less serious, interpretations of the art. The way that camp fits into black culture is a testament to the complexities and the nuance in black art.
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