What’s Behind the Criticism of Telfar?

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What’s Behind the Criticism of Telfar?
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The idea and carryout of creating a luxury product “for everyone” and keeping it at accessible price points, by high-fashion standards, is radical

Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photo: Retailer In 2018, Telfar changed the fashion industry by creating its now flagship “Shopping Bag.” The popular vegan-leather accessory was originally offered in three sizes across an array of muted and vibrant colorways, while its democratic price points — $150 for a small, $202 for a medium, and $257 for a large — made it an accessible introduction to a luxury brand without asking consumers to pay conventional luxury prices.

Shelton Boyd-Griffith, a contributing editor at Essence, recently wrote an op-ed on why the price of the Circle shouldn’t be controversial, presenting a well-backed argument that compares Telfar with white-owned luxury brands that don’t receive the same type of criticism. “We’ve seen it time and time again — Sean Jean, Off-White, Pyer Moss, etc. — where Black-owned brands are expected to remain at a certain scale,” Boyd-Griffith says.

It’s not because they use different materials. Boyd-Griffith pointed out that Stella McCartney makes bags exclusively from vegan leather, a very similar material to Telfar’s, and that those retail from $700 to $2,000. “I don’t hear the same arguments made in correlation to McCartney’s vegan-leather bags as we see around Telfar,” he says, pointing out that Telfar’s Shopping Bags are on par with or priced lower than most vegan-leather bags.

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