Studio Ghibli's theme park near Nagoya, Japan, celebrates the eccentric, charming movies of its founder, Hayao Miyazaki. Could two Totoro-loving toddlers find happiness there?
One of our first infractions at Ghibli Park was hoisting our one-year-old onto the polyester tummy of a woodland spirit creature. Another was letting him slip under a barricade and shelter inside a furry bus with cat eyes for headlights.
American visitors may wonder how Ghibli Park compares with Disney World. It doesn’t really. It feels much lower-key and has no rides, exotic animals, jumbo turkey legs or animatronic American presidents, among other things. The main point is to wander around soaking up Miyazaki vibes. Maybe this is why Studio Ghibli itself seems ambivalent about promoting Ghibli Park. In Japan, it has run advertisements advising fans to “take your time” visiting.
Our morning in Nagoya had already been tarnished by a 4am wake up and some public displays of unchecked toddler emotion. On the grounds of the 17th-century Nagoya Castle, for example, our three-year-old, nicknamed T, burst into tears when he learned that the castle was closed for renovation. A fuzzy Totoro lies sleeping in its carpeted lair in Children’s Town, a play area at Ghibli Park in Nagakute, Japan, June 10, 2023.
“It’s a world that you like,” Napier, who is writing a book comparing Ghibli with Disney, said of Miyazaki’s animated universe. “But it’s also full of the unexpected and complex, and sometimes scary.” A visitor catches Sheeta from the Studio Ghibli film “Castle in the Sky,” at Ghibli Park in Nagakute, Japan, June 10, 2023.
After about an hour of canvassing the warehouse, we headed for Children’s Town, a play area devoted to scenes from Totoro and other Ghibli films.
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