Tracing the origins of the sweet Irish potato candy
, purchased the rundown shop from the Shane family. They spent 18 months renovating the old interior, and were able to preserve its original wooden candy counter and apothecary-like shelving. Though the store is still better known for its clear toy candy, head confectioner Stephen Padilla says its Irish potato candy is extremely popular this time of year. “I’d say,” Padilla says, noting that they are made in small batches and rolled and finished by hand.
“It’s a cream cheese and confectioners’ sugar mixture,” Padilla explains, “to which we add macaron and angel flake coconut that has been rehydrated in coconut water.” The candies are then portioned by hand, rolled in cinnamon, and dotted with bits of nuts or seeds. It’s a bit odd, though, that 95 percent of Oh Ryan’s candy is sold to residents in Pennsylvania, Delaware, and New Jersey. “Once you get into New York City, nine out of 10 people don’t know what they are,” Lamparelli notes. Over at Stutz Candy Company — which opened in Jenkintown, Pennsylvania, about 30 minutes north of Philadelphia, in 1938 — Bugg agrees. “One thing people forget is that East Coast cities, they like to hold on to their traditions,” he says.
The California company’s recipe is based on a classic soft candy filling called divinity. Julie Moldafsky, who works in See’s advertising department, says its filling combines white chocolate-flavored divinity and crushed walnuts. That mixture is then cooled and put through a machine that divides it into potato-sized knobs. Each is rolled by hand before being enrobed in milk chocolate, dusted with a mix of cocoa and cinnamon, and adorned with a few pine nuts.
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