Vegan cheese that actually tastes good? It's possible! (From 2019)
But these mainstream vegan cheeses aren’t to everyone’s taste. “Traditionally, vegan cheese has been thought of as bland and ‘plasticky’,” says Charlotte Stevens, who is the co-founder of La Fauxmagerie, a vegan cheesemonger in London – and purportedly the first of its kind in the UK. “While these cheeses, which are often made with oils and starch, are certainly cheaper and more accessible, many customers complain that the flavour isn’t quite right for them.
Yet, Stevens acknowledges that the faux cheese industry has some way to go. “Vegan cheese is still at a nascent stage. There are a few cheese types we’ve not quite nailed yet – for example, cheddar. We sell a few cheddar-style cheeses, one of which has a cheddar-like tang but the texture of brie, and another that has the right consistency but lacks that tang,” she says.
To that end, the duo is experimenting with microbial fermentation, a synthetic technique that enables microflora like bacteria and fungi to express casein proteins. These are then turned into larger structures called casein micelles – one of the key building blocks of cow’s milk. “Then, we simply have to add plant-based fats, sugars and vitamins to get a milk-like solution that is ready to be made into cheese using the traditional cheesemaking process,” they explain.
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