Black fashion creatives told WWD what the fashion industry should be doing now to fight racist policies and police brutality.
The industry has been proclaiming its need to be more diverse for at least a decade, and proudly patting itself on the back for the steps it has taken. Companies issue press releases about the efforts they are making internally; they give donations; they buy tables at charity events supporting black causes; they might even sponsor scholarships.
That’s such a huge question. Maintaining a strong sense of self-worth when you have been spit on, called the “N” word, stalked by security in stores and other public spaces, denied leases, loans, attention, opportunities and been the only person of color at camp, in classrooms, meetings and boardrooms has been challenging. My parents always made sure I knew my value and I’ve been determined to push through and succeed in spite of these experiences.
The brands first of all should be more aware and conscious of the times we live in, which are difficult because of the pandemic and the whole thing about social justice and equality for black people. Brands need to focus on inclusivity and diversity of black people in ways that they have not done before. Gucci has done it brilliantly. Gucci had a luncheon last year with 300 of the most influential African Americans in the industry. They have an advisory committee for diversity.
Major fashion houses can express this by collaborations with designers of color. Implementing apprenticeships with people of color because I’m a firm believer in a “hands on approach”. I unequivocally believe that the aforementioned 15 percent rule be applied to executive boards, staff and management. Presently two-thirds of my executive team are women of color. I also think women in general are undervalued and their voices need to be represented in all three phases. I believe this truly circles back around to major fashion houses being more inclusive.
I so believe there is still a bias in specifically the American fashion industry toward understanding that black “luxury” designers can and do sell to women of all races and colors. I’ve heard for years this theory that white luxury clients would not buy off of black models. Keeping the black models relegated to one in a show. “Now,” well, thank God that has been proven wrong. Showing a broader view of the American woman.
Self-evaluate and see how you are part of the problem or the solution. False support when it’s trendy will not help. It’s actively working to change our own minds first and then those of the people we employ and influence.What makes you feel hopeful at this moment? There are many ways the fashion industry can get involved and information on this has never been so readily available. Supporting organizations that have long been doing the groundwork in their local and greater communities is a great place to start, donate to these causes. Make your support visible so we can all be encouraged and educated on these platforms is also vital.
I think one of the most important things would be to start hiring more black people and when I say this, I don’t mean hiring people to work in the storefront or in the stock room. I mean hiring black people on an executive level. Let us be decision-makers, once this is enforced, everything else will fall into place as far as imagery goes.
Change from within starts at the top. The right leadership means everything and it’s not just what you have to say, but the actions you continue to implement long after the riots and the noise subsides. Meaning, don’t post about it, be about it, and open the platform to different races for fresh “woke” ideas with a purpose to flow. I find that too often the media doesn’t appear to be genuine. They are all simply posting the same viral video.
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