Revisit all of the most potent memories from fall 2020 in Vogue Runway’s seasonal “scrapbook.'
“The art history major in me always loves a designer/artist intersection, but it’s rare to find one as inspiring and meaningful as Tory Burch’s collaboration with Francesca DiMattio. Cheap marketing stunt this was not. For starters, it began with a real-life connection—Burch has purchased DiMattio’s sculptures for her personal collection—and their meeting of the minds went beyond the clothes.
One was in a stadium-sized show in Paris, the other in a church hall in London. Two opposite ends of the designer scene, grappling with the same existential problems. English used her platform to explain how she put together her collection and her presentation as a circular economy in microcosm. She’d called up her peers in London, asking if they had fabric leftovers she might use. ‘An act of preservation,’ she called it.
Demna Gvasalia took some flak afterwards for pitching us into an end-of-days scenario, whilst still proposing the buying of fashion. He recognized the crux of the matter when I asked him about the fast-moving awareness of sustainability that is running through the industry. ‘This is the question now: someone has to pay for it,’ he said. ‘There are things, for example, like sustainable neoprene and stretch fabrics that you can use now.
Balenciaga’s mother company, Kering, has instituted compliance protocols on sustainability at the corporate level—they are signatories to The Fashion Pact, which was formed at the G7 summit last April. ‘I’m happy that we’re part of that structure that has a lot of innovative research,’ Gvaslia said. ‘And here, inside Balenciaga, people really believe this is a modern way of doing things.
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