There's nothing quite like the all-in experience of Victor Villa's queso tacos, made in a style that epitomizes the L.A. dreamer, the go-getter.
A thrilling sort of gravitational pull always attracted food lovers to the weekly pop-ups by Villa’s Tacos in 2021 and 2022, held near a restaurant-dense corner of York Boulevard in Highland Park.
The scene orbited around Victor Villa, a nonstop cannonball of energy. Surrounded by tables covered in striped serapes, he and his team refined an efficient assembly system: One or two oversaw grilling, someone chopped meats, others flattened blue-corn masa into discs or piled ingredients — crumbled chorizo, minced ranchera asada, black beans jumbled with diced nopales — onto the freshly made, silky-sturdy tortillas.
Victor Villa, owner of Villa’s Tacos, left, is a cannonball of energy. Right: The Victor special, an off menu item.
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