'I haven't really personally put myself in the collections and in the storytelling of the collections, and this felt like the right time to do that.'
How does one continue to innovate season after season while committing to one medium — in the case of
, knitwear? The designer not only continues to build on the established codes of his namesake brand, he pushes the possibilities of his fabrication of choice with a Fall 2022 collection that's clear-eyed and focused, self-referential but ambitious. — a tutu with a jersey one-shoulder top. "I really enjoyed doing that. The idea of jersey stayed on my mind," he says.
So, when it came time to design Fall 2022, "I really wanted to incorporate that slinkiness, that body-sculpting, that body-con that you can do with cut-and-sew jersey.
"Black Girl" follows Diouana, looking at her life as a domestic worker in the south of France and her past in Senegal. "She has a strength and elegance and dignity that countless immigrants and women of color face when they're put into these situations," Glemaud says. "I really wanted to show that strength of women who, when they leave the house, they are done — she's wearing jewelry, a scarf, a great heel.
Much of the sophistication of the Fall 2022 collection comes through in the restraint of the color palette. Glemaud works with just five colors this season: black, white, cocoa brown, café au lait and orange. "The reason why," he says, "was to seamlessly blend the collection together." By doing so, the brand keeps the attention primarily on the ease of the silhouette and the material, as it spotlights a new category.
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