On Isle au Haut, the more things change, the more they stay the same.
Life there has stayed the same more than it has changed, and what change has come has arrived on a delay. I remember, as a young girl in the early 90s, when the first underwater cables were laid the seven miles from the mainland to the island, providing the first telephone service. Communal phones — pay-phones for which you didn’t need to pay — were installed at the tiny island store and, up the hill at the town hall, which doubles as the schoolhouse gymnasium and the library.
And everyone waves, a particular, island kind of wave, just a flat hand raised in acknowledgement. It’s something of a social mandate on the rock. It's fitting. People come to the island to be quiet, but islanders understand the essential presence of each other. The wave reaffirms the interconnectedness of island life: I see you. I’ll leave you be. But I’ll be here if you need me.
The world keeps hurtling toward and around Isle au Haut — the ocean ecosystem threatened by warming and overfishing, the arrival of the virtual realm a fundamental shift in the island’s isolation. Today, it is even possible to live on the island and work remotely. But Isle au Haut remains a world apart. Its fragility and remoteness are what lend The Island its enduring allure. I’m tempted, by habit and stale impulse, to write that the natural world is all there is to see and do here.
At the time of this writing, my family and I are beginning to plan and pack for the long trip Down East. This is an unimaginable, and quite unexpected, sweetness; from March to mid-July, we operated under the assumption that we’d be unable to visit Isle au Haut this year. COVID-19 had, for months, prompted the community to temporarily close itself off to non-residents. The potential absence of such a sacred ritual was devastating. But The Island doesn’t belong to us summerers.
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