Even then, Summer Pavilion’s chef Cheung Siu Kong continues to find ways for diners to appreciate Cantonese cuisine through creative alcohol pairings and collaborative menus.
There are signature dishes such as poached rice with lobster and steamed Dong Xing grouper fillet in superior stock and 18-year-old tangerine peel. There are plates that reflect Cheung’s childhood experiences and his current passions. The stewed lamb brisket marinated with fermented beancurd sauce tells of days where he’d mix fermented bean curd with rice as a meal for himself while his parents were busy working.
He also finds collaborative menus to be both a novelty that draws diners to a restaurant and a platform for broadening the diners’ appreciation of different forms of Chinese cuisine. For example, in March, he worked with chef Liu Zhen from Yong Fu to showcase Ningbo food, a seafood-abundant cuisine with aromatic and salty characteristics that are not familiar to most local diners. Earlier this month, he had a four-hands menu with chef Chan Yau Leung from Cantonese restaurant Duddell’s.
Creativity may be necessary, but the foundation of Cantonese cooking is never compromised. The distinguishing factor in Cantonese cuisine is the skilled control of oil, fire, flavouring and starch, said Cheung. The ability to achieve the perfect wok hei, texture and consistency in basic Cantonese dishes such as fried rice, sweet and sour pork and double-boiled soups comes down to one thing: Experience.
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