These kimchi patatas bravas are proudly inauthentic.
A daughter of Indian immigrants, Bhogal found herself uprooted, at age 7, from her home in Nairobi. The resettlement to London left Bhogal feeling unsettled—an anxiety that she and her father found could only be assuaged by grazing. A handful of Bombay mix or fried cashews tossed in chili powder and black salt, crunched half-thinkingly or while padding back to bed—these familiar comforts in a discomfiting, unfamiliar setting brought, if not total ease, at least something close.
“We took the traditions of our ancestors and their regional home cooking and overlaid them with the reality of our new home and whatever its various food markets, delis, canteens and multicultural supermarkets had to offer on any given day,” Bhogal writes in the introduction. “This is what I suppose could be loosely termed ‘immigrant cuisine’, proudly inauthentic recipes that span geography, ethnicity and history.
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