Butter mochi meets diet culture resistance in a Portland home kitchen.
on the planet, it boasts the highest cost of living compared to any other state—which means grocery bills are higher, too. Imported canned goods are some of the more affordable options available. Hawaii’s verdant, fertile landbe capable of feeding the people who live there, were it not for the fact that so much of it is occupied by the military, the tourism industry, and monocrop agriculture.
The farther you are from the archipelago, the less likely you are to find butter mochi in a bakery display. Even on Oahu, where Jenkins grew up, its natural habitat is the home kitchen, where it’s usually presented in a casserole dish. Sometimes you’d find it at a lunch spot, wrapped in cellophane and served alongside macaroni salad, two scoops of rice, and a protein. “I’ve seen butter mochi growing up—and here [in Portland] even—in those contexts of working people’s food.
She’ll often riff on nostalgic flavors, like the Hawaiian Hurricane Popcorn she grew up eating, toying with the idea that the butter mochi itself is a comestible link to childhood comfort. She treats grocery shopping “like getting art supplies,” and waits patiently—sometimes until the night before baking—before inspiration hits. “It’s this exercise in trusting my intuition. We could argue about which side of the brain that comes from,” she said. “Maybe it’s the heart.
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