The AW23 shows have been defined by ribbeting footwear (hi JW Anderson), pillow talk (Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s latest ploy to romance us) and 'White Lotus' stars (Will Sharpe at Emporio and Theo James at Giorgio Armani, respectively).
Grace Wales Bonner can always be relied on for an eclectic – and fascinating – mix of references, and the designer delved deep for her Paris debut. For autumn/winter 2023, her cerebral approach manifested in collegiate jackets emblazoned with Sorbonne ’56 – a nod to the first Congress of Black Artists and Writers held that year in Paris, nostalgic silk scarves created in collaboration with the artist, and menswear skirts that evoke the Maharaja and Maharani of Indore.
It wasn’t all about the past: pieces created with longtime collaborator Adidas Originals offered a preview of Wales Bonner’s forthcoming designs for Jamaica’s football team, and a contemporary soundtrack featured some of the coolest artists on the planet , all enhanced by a live performance from jazz trumpeter Hermon Mehari.Forget the runway, because for autumn/winter 2023, the Italian brand is all about the bedroom.
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