The coronavirus crisis has brought into sharp focus the structural disparity of an industry that relies on undocumented workers to make restaurants profitable
Two months ago, the 31-year-old had a steady job as a line cook at the San Francisco Saloon, the long-standing bar and grill on Pico Boulevard, and was renting a room in a home near the West L.A. neighborhood where he grew up. When he wasn’t working, he dreamed of someday opening his own restaurant.He got evicted from the home he was living in last week over a dispute involving missed rent . Most of his personal belongings were recently locked up in storage.
The American restaurant industry hinges on the labor of undocumented workers like Ruiz. The Pew Research Center estimates that about 10% of the industry workforce, or more than a million U.S. restaurant workers, are undocumented; many work in low-pay back-of-house jobs without worker protections. He was juggling two restaurant jobs before the shutdown. He worked 70 hours a week on average, splitting the hours between a popular downtown cocktail bar and a restaurant-bar in West Hollywood.The 46-year-old Oaxaca native came to the U.S. two decades ago. He fell into restaurant work and liked the hustle and speed it required. Without papers, it was the best work he could find.
“If you stand still for a second, someone always needs something right away. The back-of-house staff is not allowed to take long, chatty paid breaks like the other workers.” “I only know my home state of Oaxaca through pictures and TV shows and documentaries. I feel ashamed not to know more about my own people,” he said.
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