In her new book 'Raw Dog,' Jamie Loftus embarks on a hot dog-filled journey, complete with a visit to the annual Fourth of July hot dog eating competition at Coney Island.
The hot dog, if you think about it even a little bit, is a food ripe for further exploration. Few among us are quite sure what it contains. But despite its esoteric nature. Hot dogs are inextricably linked with the best parts of summer. They’re the stuff of suburban backyards as much as city street corners. The hot dog, more than most other foods, is deeply American.
The event is free, so there’s a fair number of people eager to once again walk maskless among the masses — veterans and frontline workers who got seating preference, a couple kids sneaking sips from their parents’ Heinekens, nationalists in head-to-toe American flag regalia that scans to the average leftist as menacing. Still,of the people are here to see Little Miss Joseph specifically.
I bring half a hot dog back down to the press pit in my pocket, hoping Henry is none the wiser to my blatant disregard of the hot dog rules. The field is flooded with unmasked people chanting “Joey! Joey!” as the sun grows hotter, mostly family and friends of competitors and the exhausted press pit. In our midst are more shoddily masked faces, either legacy reporters who delight in the tradition or college-aged stringers who couldn’t be more upset to be there.
Because the world of hot dog eating is built to give deference to the men’s contest, there is a noticeablein the energy of the stadium when George Shea poises himself to introduce the competitors he really cares about. As he’s teeing up, a failed marriage proposal takes place in the stands — a man in an American flag tank top and cargo shorts gets on one knee as his girlfriend, a blond woman profoundly out of his league in the ugliest Zara maxi dress these eyes have ever seen, rejects him.
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