For over a decade, Margaret and Irene Li have been turning leftovers into dumpling fillings. They just published their second cookbook, “Perfectly Good Food,” a guide to zero-waste cooking.
The Li sisters, Margaret and Irene, have a saying: “If it is delicious in general, it will be delicious in a dumpling.” Cheddar-scallion-potato dumpling? “It’s our love letter to the pierogi, and all Eastern European forms of starch wrapped in starch,” Irene says. Dumplings made from leftovers? God, yes.
Some forty per cent of the food grown in America is thrown away, much of it from people’s kitchens. And food is expensive! The book advocates a jazzy, contingency-driven approach to household thrift. A recipe might call for any crunchy vegetable, the meat of your choice, or thinly sliced onion, “red if you have it.” They’re not trying to make you buy things you don’t need.
Not long ago, the sisters were in Brighton, Massachusetts, in Irene’s apartment , making chicken dumplings out of a wizened ginger root and some off-color broccoli. They are Internet-taught riffers, anti-perfectionists. “Our mom would make a special trip to Chinatown to get Chinese chives or Napa cabbage, and we are a hundred per cent too lazy to do that, so we would just use whatever greens are in the fridge,” Margaret said.
Irene judiciously trimmed off brown florets. Ginger peels went into a stock bag. She is thirty-three, and wears her hair in a growing-out Mohawk. “I have actually had this haircut for like thirteen years,” she said. “Before everybody’s hipster boyfriend.” Margaret, who goes by Mei, is forty-one, has two children, and recently moved to Scotland, land of marked-down “wonky apples” and tiny fridges.
In 2012, with their older brother, Andy, the Lis opened a dumpling-oriented food truck in Boston called Mei Mei, which means Little Sister. Once, they served dumplings to Yotam Ottolenghi, who was in town while his child was being born . Later, Mei Mei became a restaurant; eventually, Irene bought her siblings out and opened a dumpling factory /cafeteria /cooking school in an industrial part of South Boston frequented by pipe fitters.
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