The assless icon has had a long and controversial life in fashion.
, associate professor of fashion at Winchester School of Arts points out that chaps were almost destined to become a part of fetish culture. “If they were worn over jeans they made them tighter and pushed things in. If they were worn without other clothing they emphasised the body underneath and allowed for sexual acts quickly and easily without having to undress,” he says.
“Tom of Finland was seeing what gay men were wearing, enhancing that, and subsequently influencing [fashion],” says Dr Cole, pointing to its impact not just on gay fashion, but fashion as a whole. “Designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier or those involved in the 90s punk rave scene like Cyberdog started to make chaps out of materials other than leather so that they would lose some of those overt references to BDSM, but not completely.
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