How could veganism change the world?
needs China to curb its appetite for meat. In the first three decades of the “reform and opening” era the number of farmed animals in the country tripled. Raising them polluted water supplies and gobbled up scarce arable land. Around the globe, China’s growing hunger for red meat, specifically, has seen its beef imports grow 40-fold between 2010 and 2018. The boom threatens Latin American forests and Arctic ice caps alike, as cattle-rearing prompts land-clearing and emits greenhouse gases.
In the West, angst about animal welfare or disgust at the idea of meat are big motives for vegetarians. Chinese consumers are less squeamish. Few mention animal suffering in surveys about dietary choices, and fewer still a distaste for meat. This week Chaguan visited Number 8 Market, a bustling foodie’s delight in the coastal city of Xiamen. He found locals admiring butcher’s stalls resembling anatomy classrooms, with body parts from tongues to trotters laid out for inspection.
Alternative lifestyles are a hard sell in China. Those who shun meat are generally shy about standing out, says Zhou Qiyu, a manager at Whole Perfect Foods, a company founded in 1993. It specialises in mock meat, from plant-based sausages to hamburger patties made of peas, soyabeans, mushrooms and other vegetables.
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