The county’s vineyards are producing standout bottles – and attracting some of the world’s most prestigious producers
California’s Jackson Family Wines owns more than 40 prime estates from Napa to Saint-Émilion. So its recent announcement of a new wine project in Essex was considered a curveball by some. For this clay-bound county in south-east England is often better known for being the butt of jokes than a seat for vines – but the growing consensus is that “England’s Côte-d’Or” is now producing some of its best still wines.
Standing in the box-fresh winery, I taste the new 2021 Chardonnay , a luscious, almost tropical white with a perky acidity and subtle saltiness; and the fantastic 2021 Pinot Noir that has a concentration and elegance still rare in English reds. There is a single-vineyard Chardonnay called Octagon Block, which is designed for longer cellaring. I also had a preview of Solstice, which will be Danbury’s stab at a sparkling.
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