The Costume Institute's 2024 exhibition will highlight the importance of the oft-forgotten textile conservators.
Some Met Gala themes are easier to digest than others. Karl Lagerfeld? Simple, an ode to the late German designer. Heavenly Bodies? An exploration of the intersection of religion and fashion. Punk? A celebration of the subculture and its unprecedented influence on style. This year, though,—is a bit more esoteric. The initial announcement had many dreaming of princess gowns, but it was quickly revealed that Disney would have no part in the Gala or exhibition.
Two “Butterfly” ball gowns designed by Charles James in 1955, both of which will be on view as part of the “Sleeping Beauties” exhibition.Photography © Nick Knight, 2024. Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Of course “Fashioning” and “Sleeping Beauties” are two different exhibitions. Laura L. Camerlengo, curator in charge of costumes and textile arts at FAMSF, wanted every dress on the mannequin for “Fashioning.” “I do think, for interpretation and understanding, that’s the most legible way to read and understand a garment,” Camerlengo toldback in January 2024. Thanks to gravity, however, mannequin display is much more of a feat than laying a piece flat.
Szuhay, for the most part, agrees, though she hesitates to make a generalized statement about all the pieces in FAMSF’s collection. “You have to make that decision: do we want to have its moment in the sun? Or is the goal to preserve it for preservation’s sake?” she says. “We want our pieces to get out there. We want the public to see them.” For many of the pieces in “Fashioning,” this will likely be their one chance to shine.
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