California's legendary Madonna Inn is a monument to kitsch.
The cherubs won’t stop staring at me. There are a half-dozen or so of them, lumpy and gilded, hovering around my bed like hummingbirds at their feeders. They might look like chubby little babies, but their faces are squarely middle-aged and old-fashioned, each one looking like a different specific president from the 1800s.
The Madonna Inn is a charming monument to mid-century kitsch, a wormhole straight back to the early 1960s, a time when the line between dignified and outlandish was perhaps too easy to cross. The California hotel is a landmark, a legend in its own right, and something all travelers should experience at least once. It’s hosted guests in its rambling, faux-alpine buildings since 1958, with each room elaborately designed and decorated by the hotel’s founders, Alex and Phyllis Madonna.
You’ll feel it the most in the dining room of Alex Madonna’s Gold Rush Steak House. The hotel’s signature restaurant is an explosion of pink and gold, with different shades of pink calling an uneasy truce with one another and coexisting in the same dining room. Replace the pink with purple and the floral patterns with paisley and you’d have Prince’s dream restaurant.
As amazing as the steak house is, the Madonna’s legendary status rests mostly on its themed rooms. There are 110 of them, each one with its own unique name and decor, and if you’ve got an hour or two to kill you need toYou’ll see some common design features that recur throughout—bright colors, spiral staircases, rock waterfall showers—but each room has its own defining element, it’s own reason for existing, that makes it stand out—and that makes deciding which room to stay in a real challenge.
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