A masterplan for regenerating the capital means the centre's skyline is evolving, but the mountains on the outskirts offer respite
A masterplan for regenerating the capital means the centre's skyline is evolving, but the mountains on the outskirts offer respite. In the polished expanse of Skanderbeg Square, as the sun illuminates the Dajti mountain range that encases Tirana, I sense the change.capital had been based on decades of closed Communist dictatorship and film depictions of Soviet-style block housing, dark alleyways and a lot of grey. But I can see that things have moved on.
The Catholic nun’s name adorns Tirana’s airport, where flight connectivity grew by 80 per cent between 2019 and 2023. Airlines have been busy adding routes to the capital;which will operate its first ever summer schedule to Tirana this year, with 22 routes from the UK and Europe serving both the Albanian diaspora and tourists curious to visit this wallet-friendly country. Temperatures are already agreeable by mid-March, with Tirana basking in the low 20.
Burek – flaky pastry with a cheese, meat or spinach filling – is the ideal breakfast on the go, picked up from any of the city’s plentiful bakeries or from the Old Town’swhere fresh produce from the surrounding provinces tumbles from stalls and you’ll find a mishmash of homeware, military antiques and handcrafted souvenirs. There are dozens of bars and cafes with open-air seating where you can sip a coffee amid older Tirana residents. It’d be easy to lose hours here, watching the world go by.
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