The fascinating cruise aboard a cargo ship, hopping between paradise islands

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The fascinating cruise aboard a cargo ship, hopping between paradise islands
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Why a souped-up cargo ship is one of the best ways to see the Polynesian islands 🛳️⤵️

February 4, 2023 7:00 amin the South Pacific. Except it’s not a cruise ship. It looks like the weird offspring of a cargo freighter and a passenger liner for a reason. From the bow back to the bridge, the story is clearly cargo. There are stacked containers, a curious mix of goods plus an assortment of forklift trucks and cranes to shift it all around. Then, from the bridge back to the stern, it suddenly becomes a gleaming white cruise ship.

Earlier versions of the Aranui were strictly cargo until, in the 80s, the Aranui 1 added passenger cabins. The latest iteration can carry up to 254 passengers. Every month, she sails out of Papeete on Tahiti, the capital of French Polynesia, making her way through the low-lying atolls of the French Polynesian Tuamotus on a two-week voyage, stopping at six of the spectacularly mountainous islands of the Marquesas.

At the other seven stops we dropped anchor offshore and the Aranui’s barges were craned off and loaded with goods to carry ashore. Docking at Ua Pou may have been impressive, but anchoring at Ua Huka was the real manoeuvring feat of the circuit: Invisible Bay is the perfect name for the narrow entrance into the port of Vaipaee.

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