Plus: Peter Do’s Helmut Lang Debut didn’t quite hit the mark.
Before joining the Cut in 2015, she was fashion critic at the New York Times from 1999 to 2014.From left: Coach; Helmut Lang and Ralph LaurenReviews, trends and whats happening on-and-off the runway.Two years ago, on the Greenpoint waterfront, Peter Do staged his first runway show and the assurance came striding through every look.
So when Fast Retailing, the parent company of Uniqlo, announced that Do would be the new designer of Helmut Lang, another of its brands, it made sense. Do has 1990s minimalism on his brain; he knows the style as well as the cliches, and he seemed the best choice to unpack Lang and find a new expression for 2023.
That didn’t quite happen on Friday, as the New York spring collections got underway in the sweltering heat. Do certainly navigated Lang’s straight-line tailoring, opening with suits with a fuchsia stripe down the sides of pants, a nod to a well-known Lang collection. And Do evoked Lang’s taste for ordinary garments, like T-shirts.But everything is context.
Do obviously has a daunting task ahead of him if he wants to make a real project of Helmut Lang and have some fun in the process. He has to first get to the bottom of Lang’s sensibility, what made him so different, and then find a relatable beat in the present moment. Hedi Slimane did the smart thing when he took over Saint Laurent after Tom Ford, though his approach was initially annoying and seemingly lazy.
Stuart Vevers got things just right this season at Coach, where he celebrated his tenth year at the sportswear brand with a big show at the Public Library — Jennifer Lopez, in a fringed buff-suede jacket and boots, in attendance—and a dinner.
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