Where to find saffron risotto, gnocchi with lamb and black olive ragout, udon in white miso sabayon, and smoked rosemary ice cream in Marseille
A modern Mediterranean bistro style of cooking has made Marseille one of the most exciting places to eat in Europe right now. Borrowing from the kitchens of all of the countries that surround the storied sea, the city’s talented young chefs are inventing bright, original, flavorful dishes.
France’s second-largest city, which grew up around one of the great natural harbors of the Mediterranean, has always been a stewpot of a place. During the 19th century, Marseille shared the title of world’s fastest-growing city with Chicago, as immigrants from Italy, Spain, and Greece came to work in its docks, mills, and factories. Then, in the 1950s and ’60s, the city saw waves of arrivals from former French colonies, especially from North Africa.
The ancient port’s history as the most cosmopolitan city in France helps explain the head-spinning variety in the food scene today, which has shown through especially since 2013. In the last decade, the city has smartened up with impressive urban-renewal projects, including Richard Rogers’s beautiful renovation of Le Vieux Port, a sleek new tram system, and architect Rudy Ricciotti’s magnificent Mucem museum.
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