New titles from Rick Martinez, Kwame Onwuachi, Reem Assil, and more will add some spark to your spring cooking
Reem Assil allows us to witness her evolving relationship to food, family, history, and social justice as an “Arabiyya,” an Arab woman. Her use of the term has a specific purpose: To claim an identity in this country, as she reminds us, can be a form of resistance. Assil, who opened her eponymous Arab bakery in Oakland in 2017 , uses both anecdotes and ingredient lists to explore her identity, something that began with her family’s roots in Palestine and Syria.
Family history has always served as an undercurrent to Assil’s work, nourishing and informing her political consciousness. That’s equally true here: Each recipe is as much a personal essay as the actual essays that punctuate the book’s five sections. Recipe sidebars come with detailed information about the history and use of certain key ingredients and dishes.
As for the recipes, I can personally attest to the virtues of khaliat nahal, Yemini honeycomb bread stuffed with cheese, topped with sesame seeds, and doused with syrup. Needless to say, a whole tray of these were gone in less than 24 hours. I also tried a version of a Palestinian maqlouba made of layers of vegetables and rice. Although I burned the bottom-turned-top layer, the flavors were fantastic.
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