The popular Virgil Village restaurant is under scrutiny as charges of kitchen mismanagement surface online.
Sqirl, the popular Virgil Village brunch spot owned by Jessica Koslow, was battered this weekend by allegations that the restaurant operated under unsafe and unsanitary working conditions for years. Among the allegations: Jams were not stored correctly, allowing for severe mold growth; the restaurant had rodent infestations that were not dealt with in a timely fashion; and the facility housed an unpermitted kitchen space that was intentionally concealed from health inspectors.
Koslow has been nominated for a James Beard Award for her work at Sqirl and was in the first Master Food Preserver cohort in Los Angeles, a program run by the University of California’s Cooperative Extension program. She is slated to release her second cookbook, covering the topic of jam making, on July 21.
“I eat the same jam I serve my customers, family and friends and would never knowingly serve any food that would put their health at risk. I realize that I was wrong and I am sorry,” she said. Gelyn Montanino, a former pastry chef at Sqirl, said that moldy jam buckets continued to be an issue at the restaurant when she was hired in August 2019. “I was immediately disgusted,” she recalled. “I asked about it and no one had a real reason as to why it was that way. Almost all the buckets would have a thick layer of mold on top with no lids or wrap. I’ve witnessed cooks scraping the mold off and putting the jam into their pans for the line.
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