Director Rebecca Cappelli's documentary traces deforestation in Brazil to tanneries in Italy, examines the working conditions and follows the trail around the globe.
The film takes her across the world. In Brazil, she explores the deforestation that is taking place to make way for cattle that end up as leather, and in Italy, she shows how the hides are sanitized and tanned. In China, she explores the industrialindustry as well as illegal trading of endangered animals, and she highlights the unregulated trapping industry in the U.S., among other touchpoints.
“When it comes to sustainability and ethical fashion, there is a blind spot — we do not speak about the animals that are used in fashion, and we do not speak about the impact that using animals has on the planet and the people who work in theCappelli said that very few brands have animal welfare policies, and a 2020 report from welfare organization Four Paws found that only 21 percent of brands had traced their animal-derived materials.
Eighty percent are sent abroad to be processed into a commodity, with the second-largest market being Italy. Cappelli follows the trail as it goes to tanneries which then sell on to fashion brands for bags and shoes. In undercover scenes, tannery owners namecheck many common high street and high-end brands that publicize their sustainable credentials but allegedly purchase from untraceable sources.
One touchpoint is her personal journey from an animal-loving kid to an adult fashionista who wore furs without making a conscious connection. Ultimately consumers don’t see the impact of materials when animals are disregarded and commodified, she argues. The film also examines wool production, and the impact industrial farming has in Australia and New Zealand, including being a major greenhouse gas emissions source for those countries even though it is often touted as a sustainable fabric.
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