Vogue spoke to Shaina Loew-Banayan about the feat of writing a book while running a restaurant, the essay collection that helped them gain confidence in their writing, and the newly recovered sense of joy that accompanies their approach to food.
It’s difficult to write about disordered eating and recovery in a way that refrains from cliches. As author Leslie Jamison put it in her 2018 booka story about addiction “is always a story that has already been told.” Maybe that’s what makes the author and chef Shaina Loew-Banayan’s new bookso captivating.
Loew-Banayan, who is the chef and owner of Cafe Mutton in Hudson, New York , started working in kitchens as a teenager, eventually putting in time everywhere from Eleven Madison Park to Prune. Their story of being alternately seduced and horrified by food, and by the restaurant industry in general, is also one that feels particularly timely.
Is there anything you’ve read that has helped you explore your relationship with food, that you would recommend other people read? I tend to avoid kitchen memoirs now. When I was young, I loved that stuff and read all the food books because I just wanted to understand and learn and be immersed, and 15 years of that has caused me to feel like I need space. One book that made me feel better about publishing my book is calledby Emilie Pine.
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