.Schiaparelli's spring lineup catered to the two faces of the Schiaparelli customer: the city-dweller, with chic black-and-white outfits, and the holiday-maker.
“For me, this collection is about meeting the moment of where the brand is right now,” he told WWD in a preview. The lineup catered to the two faces of the Schiaparelli customer: the city-dweller, with chic black-and-white outfits, and the holiday-maker, whose colorful wardrobe contains a wealth of Surrealist twists.
Roseberry beefed up the daywear with shirts and sweatshirts embroidered with tassels and an ear, pierced with an actual hoop earring. There were humorous takes on bourgeois staples like leather-trimmed skirt suits, the traditional horsebit fastenings replaced by thick chains embellished with gilt noses, mouths and ears.
These coexisted with more eccentric designs, like a cropped jean jacket with conical breasts, an inflatable leather parka, and most amusing of all, an embroidered bathrobe for the fictional Hotel Schiaparelli, complete with terry cloth slippers with gilded toes. “I really wanted to diversify, and this is very much playing to the strengths of my training at Thom Browne, where we were able to really scale the business,” said Roseberry, who was previously design director of men’s and women’s collections at the New York-based brand.
He’s encouraged by the response to the fall collection, which is selling briskly. “It’s so exciting, because the strongest pieces are the pieces that are selling first. I think people are coming to us so fatigued by generic notions of luxury,” he said. “There’s definitely a customer who is looking for something that’s going to stand out.”’s nipple jacket is proving popular.
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