Sandy Liang’s fall 2023 collection has arrived. See every look:
If you posted a video of Sandy Liang’s fall show to TikTok, you could easily tag it coquette, or balletcore, or perhaps light academia. But Liang was offering pinafores and prom dresses long before any of those terms became popular online. An all-but-official outfitter of the downtown cool set, Liang finds new ways to balance naivety and youth with spookiness, seduction, and clientele who can drop upwards of $500 on a dress.
All the bows and first-recital-worthy touches belie Liang’s intense practicality. This season, many of the dresses came “pre-styled” with rosettes, sashes, and in a few cases, capelets. Liang’s intention wasn’t to make the dresses more saccharine, but rather to make them more utilitarian. “I love the idea of wearing a dress and you’re doing everything in it,” she said in her showroom during model castings for the show.
That attitude is produced by the wearer, since at face value these clothes are pretty precious. A brown taffeta dress with a bow on the sternum and a cape in the back are fit for Clara in the Nutcracker ballet. A pleated navy skirt could barely be more mini, and was styled with baby blue leg warmers and two gray knits. A pair of mini dresses with frilly hems come with prom queen style sashes pinned with rosettes.
The jersey offerings at the end were decidedly grown-up. A clingy red ankle-length dress was unabashedly sultry . The finale was a show-stopping cherry red dress with a flowing bow and rosette smack dab in the middle of the neckline. It was compelling and modern, while still referencing the prom dresses of yore.
The twisted doll motif was underscored by Hole’s “Doll Parts” playing in the finale. Courtney Love singing “I want to be the girl with the most cake,” was as crucial an accessory as the dozens of bows adorning the models’ hair. Eat your heart out, TikTok.
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