Bold color pairings electrified an energetic Rochas collection.
The departure couldn’t have been more radical. After presenting an all-black ensemble last season, Rochas creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua found himself craving color. “I wanted something that popped, a big energy for spring,” he said backstage. “Usually Rochas is darker, more theatrical and dramatic. But this season it’s all about a light and colorful femininity.”
There was nothing saccharine about the vibrant looks that careered down the runway. Colors clashed together in pleasant pairings — cobalt blue cropped cotton trousers with a lime green blouse, a pale yellow version paired with a long green leather blazer — or were given the center stage on full silhouettes. A red sleeveless dress with a ruffled hem and a tie neck was a glorious alternative to all-black eveningwear.
Sometimes the color touches were subtle, like a red silk belt left undone and trailing in the model’s wake. The designer singled out a prim embroidered brocade dress, its cream fabric glittering with rhinestones — while backstage it looked demure, on the runway, once paired with a pair of yellow metallic kitten heels, it took on a more modern vibe.
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