MondayNightFoodball: Ricky Hanft is bringing German deep cuts for a meaty menu at our weekly chef pop-up series at the Kedzie Inn. Preorders are now open! 👇 | MikeSula
What’s that you say? He’s just a meat cutter? Not a chef? Hanft himself is self-deprecating about his kitchen skills, but when I first met him on the eve of the pandemic at Dumpling Fest 2020 at Marz Community Brewing’s taproom, he blew myself and the other judges away with “a black-squid-ink empanadilla stuffed with wild boar chorizo, perched in the bowl of a spoon atop a crumble of cured egg yolk with salsa brava and manchego aioli.” He has the goods.
For this Monday, April 18, Hanft has devised an eye-popping menu of carnecentric central European cuisine that entirely skips the “greatest hits” of the German American canon in favor of rare and unusual dishes that make up “a menu designed around using the whole animal,” he says. “It’s how I like to cook; using fat, bones, shanks, trim, fat, and offal.
This dine-in-only menu features a groaning charcuterie spread, or in Deutsch, brotzeit, for “bread time;” just enough to prime your alimentary canal for the eisbein, a whole brined, smoked, braised-until-it-starts-melting pork shank, deep-fried crispy, and served with red cabbage kraut and split pea puree. There’s a large-bore pork and potato saumagen sausage—topped with melted onions and curry sauce; a marriage of a German haggis-type sausage and currywurst.
Hanft is bringing a couple cases of Helles Lager and Pils from Griffith’s New Oberpfalz Brewing, and he’s enlisted a whole crew of chefs he dubbed “the Wurst of Region” .
But what about all those sausages in the case at the Wurst? The good news is that while this Foodball is strictly dine-in only, Hanft is bringing up a load of packaged sausage available for purchase. I’ll have an update on the selection in the coming days.. Monday Night Foodball this April 18 is going to be the Wurst. See you at 5 PM, until it runs out.
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