Mogu Mogu is a new Sawtelle restaurant that specializes in the brothless ramen called mazemen.
Just beyond Sawtelle Boulevard’s ramen row, where the nearly infinite variations on broth include the pork-intensive tonkotsu at Tsujita; Killer Noodle’s chile-spliced tantanmen; and the mushroom-based vegan “hippie” broth at Tatsu, you will bump into Mogu Mogu, a new kitchen dedicated to the brothless ramen called mazemen .
First-timers are plied with instructions. The house protocol is to stir the noodles for 30 seconds, blending all the toppings until they emulsify into sauce. On every table there are jars of vinegar flavored with ragged strips of red chile; about one-third through the bowl, Wada recommends anointing the noodles with the lightly spiced vinegar for a reviving whomp of umami flavor.
Stir it thoroughly and the dish turns fragrant and creamy, with salty, garlicky contours. Someone at the table will probably compare it to a Carbonara sauce.Curry mazemen uses many of the same seasonings and ingredients, but the addition of Japanese curry powder adds a fragrant, warming pulse.The deluxe mazemen is the heartiest, gilded with jiggly flaps of pork chashu and spicy ground pork.
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