In Boyle Heights, a fast-casual Mexican restaurant inspired by Mesoamerica. Review by piescarcega.
“A lot of customers don’t believe me when I tell them we don’t have rice,” owner Deysi Serrano told me recently. “There is pressure as a restaurant to serve what we’re used to eating. But it’s not necessarily what our ancestors used to eat.
Mesoamerican farmers gave the world tomatoes, chile peppers, avocado and multiple varieties of squash and beans, among other foods. Butis most closely associated with the symbiotic triad of corn, squash and beans, known in North America as “the three sisters.” Grilled corn, onions, tomatoes, dried chiles and various spices simmer on the stove at Milpa Grille. They are used to make the restaurant’s homemade salsa.
is a thick, herb-green soup flush with smoky pasilla chile and cilantro, every spoonful vivid with crisp, fleshy corn kernels. Elotes — long, plump ears of whiteof butter and cotija cheese jolted by a dusting of Tajin.
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