Review | Hill East Burger puts its own smoky spin on a Texas trend

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Review | Hill East Burger puts its own smoky spin on a Texas trend
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The owners behind Sloppy Mama's and Republic Cantina have a new shop dedicated to Texas-style smoked burgers.

, the pair of 1,000-gallon barrel smokers that sit in the parking lot at Sloppy Mama’s in Arlington. When first developing techniques for the burgers, Neuman used Waylon and Merle, but he understood that he would need to find an alternative to the giant smokers for Hill East Burger. Enter the ungainly, decidedly unromantic Alto-Shaam, a single-compartment unit, which looks an R2-D2 droid equipped with a fire box that burns wood chips.

One bite of Hill East’s “OK” burger will validate the owners’ trust in their cold-smoking process. Check that. Just hovering your nose over the burger will validate the technique. Invisible curls of hickory smoke tantalize your nostrils even before you take that first bite. The smoke even stands up to the toppings, including yellow American cheese , griddled onions, pickles and a mayo-mustard-barbecue combo called HEB Sauce.

The menu, its ambitions bound by the size of the kitchen, hits the marks you expect. The burgers are limited to only a handful of options, though you might occasionally find a daily special appended to the menu. The OK burger is the preparation least burdened by toppings, which means it’s the best showcase for the smoked beef.

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