Review: If Taffer’s Tavern is really the restaurant of the future, we need to go back to the past, Tim Carman writes.
. He has also partnered with Cuisine Solutions, the sous-vide specialist that can promise something no kitchen brigade could: consistent cooking across the menu. The Northern Virginia-based Cuisine Solutions is essentially serving as producer for Taffer’s Tavern, doing for restaurants what the host has done for years on his TV show: bend reality to his will. In this sense, Taffer’s move into the hospitality biz is rather seamless.
Cuisine Solutions handles back-of-the-house operations at every Taffer’s Tavern. The company is also the franchisee of the D.C. location, which performs double duty: first, as a functional eatery under the auspices of a TV celebrity and, second, as a showroom for potential buyers of Cuisine Solutions’ tech-driven solution to running a restaurant in an era of labor shortages, unpredictable food costs and supply-line disruptions.
But another part of me aches for the back-of-the-house employees who are line cooks in name only, their primary responsibilities being to grab precooked, pre-portioned food, reheat it and plate it for the greater good of Taffer’s Borglike operation. This model clearly has its benefits, but they’re not always to the customer planted in the low-lit dining room or sitting around the horseshoe bar.
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